time: feb 1, 2007 2:15pm
|~~ lba ~~||
Captians Log: Star Date 4-09-77
We have been seeing large Klingon Warships, around the Delta Quadrant... Wait wrong show.
Let me just reconfig this computer thing a bit.
Leaving Big Sur was a hard thing to do. Such a beautiful place. Easy to see why authors have sought it out for Solitude. Its a little changed from what Watts, Henry Miller, and Kerouac saw. A few more porches, and A bunch of exceptionally expensive restaurants. A wealthy tourist destination if ever I saw one. Lots of money there.
meet me by the fallen down tree
It was extremely fortunate to find a place like the Redwood grille. I knew it had to exist. A place like Big Sur fails unless it can at least provide a place for the lower budget people. I wanted to stop in on the folkes there on my way out. The Bar Opens at 11. I took a very lazy route there. Through the forest and alongside the creek. Lots of giant redwoods. That northern rainforest type of climate. My lips are happy to be back in moist weather. They have healed considerably.
The Redwood Grill served me well. I showed up and ordered a Ceasar wrap. When Mike took my order back. Order for the walker. He comp'd the meal, and brought me a bowl of chili on the side. Those guys are awesome. I didn't tarry long there. Didn't even have a pint. I had enough in the days prior. Hoisted the pack and off down the road
There was a trail following the road all the way out. Near to the end of it I came across a stable. There was a hippie dude there mucking them out. He chatted me up for a couple of minutes. He recomended the Old Coast Road, for a little senic detour. It would dump me out next to the Bixby Bridge. Sounded real nice. He warned me that it was all private land along the road. He added that the locals are pretty chill this time of year.
I crossed the highway and started my ascent up the first hill. Lots of switchbacks right from the start. It was a slow start. I stopped twice on the climb. About halfway up there was a cattle gate, and some of those unhappy signs. According to the sign the next 6 miles of road were owned by El Sur Ranch. No Loitering, and certainly No Trespassing. On I walked refusing to go back down that huge hill.
I saw two cars go up the road while I walked. Other than that it was to far away from the highway to hear any of that grey noise of the highway. I saw one kind of bizzare sight. There was a Heron of some kind stalking around a grassy field It caught a huge rat. Then it took it to a puddle, where it proceeded to place it down and stab at it with its beak. It did this for some time. I think it was trying to behead the thing. I passed on, not wanting to disturb its odd behaviour. I always thought those birds were all about the aquatic game. Apparently not, they eat drowned rats as well.
On the otherside of the hill the road descended into the first valley. Darkness was begining to enclose around the forest there. The Redwoods were very haunting in the full moon light. I started thinking about Cougars. Bad Mistake. The thought brought on a wave of fear. Cougar attacks are rare. They tend to avoid humans and only like the little ones. Being 6 foot 6 i had little to fear, however the thought hung with me as i passed some excellent ambush spots.
I climbed the second hill as the mist started flowing in from the ocean. The moon glowed in the fog. At the top there was little going on. Not much could be seen. I heard the familiar hooting of an owl down below. Upon cresting the ridge the mist started to clear. As i descended it lifted completely. Just me and lady moon. More Raparian Ecosystems in this valley. Trickles of water could be heard. It grew louder down the hill. Clump, Clump, Clump. down, down, down. More hooters here.
I stopped for sleep at the 3 mile to the end mark. I wanted to sleep in the forest. Not under another bridge. There was a nice spot at the side of the road. Sheltered by some crazy cypress. It was a little rocky but there was just the right shape to them. I curled up between them neatly.
The next morning was grey. I was woken up by a truck heading down the hill. I followed it a few minutes later. They won, by a mile. Thats only because of the curves. He would have smoked me even more if it were straight. Down the road and up the other side of the valley. Around one of the last corners i caught a glimpse of Ol' Bixby. Completed in 1932 it will be celebrating its 75th this year. Quite a remarkable chunk of concrete. It is a bit twisted in the centre. Bits of concrete are missing here and there. a result of years of endless service. I can only imagine howmany RV's have driven over it. That has got to make one sore after 75 years. I was glad not to have to walk over it for fear that it might fall into the valley below.
battered but not broken
Back on Highway one. Off the relatively soft gravel, and onto the slightly angled shoulder of the highway. I am pretty sure that this is the cause of my current pains. Cocrete is unforgiving, so is ashpalt, and so is gravel. They are lovely things to build roads out of though. Rubber tires appreciate these things. Hard and frictiony. Good for driving. Not so good for walking.
Just before lunch I was passed by Dyana again. The lovely gal who picked me up and dropped me off at Lucia a couple days earlier. She was headed down to LA. She stopped and said hello. Asked me if i needed anything. I didn't really I had plenty of powerbars, and a lady had just given me a couple cans of tuna for some strange reason. So I definately was not in need. On she went back down through Big Sur.
As I entered the Carmel Highlands My foot, not my leg, started hurting, like it was being crushed. A few years ago i dropped some heavy stuff on it. I was wearing steel toes, but the heavyness missed that part. Needless to say I think this is one of those permanent damage thingies that coaches don't seem to understand when they are yelling at kids to walk it off.
I made it to Carmel with plenty of hours to spare. It was a pretty spectacular afternoon. I ran into some beer swillers under a bridge on my way into town. I stopped and picked their brain about the town. They told me it was a pretty clean town. "They like unlocked doors, saftey for their children, money, and clean people, here." Its easy to see where his biased views lie. Didn't stay there long. Declined the beer that was offered. left them with a can of tuna though
Concrete and Shoulders are unforgiving. Merciless. At least after you have spent the past few weeks pounding your soul on it. It doesn't really matter what type of fancy shoe you wear. If you are constantly smashing your feet into a rock something is bound to go asunder. When I walked across BC I became well aware of this fact. I was wearing pretty inadequate footware-- Shoes. After something like 350 kms along Highway three I couldn't walk anymore. I was forced to take my second ride. It was offered by a man in a pick-up. He gave me a cold beer upon picking me up. I never stuck out my thumb for that ride. It was offered just like the beer. I took it.
Idealism. Idealy i would walk all of California without the use of cars. Without the thing that this walking is all about-- Petroleum. Idealism is blind. It only sees portions of the situation that is wrong or white. Like a gentleman i met today doing laundry. He started his lecture telling me about the area. He seemed pretty knowledgable about the area. He was heavy into the history of Catholicism in the area. He told me of the Diocese I was currently in and how it covered the 7 counties. The lecture turned from this topic into Absolutism. The man was adamant in his assertion that the 18th century had it right. There is only black and right. There is no grey area. I tried when i could to get a word in edgwise. He hardly allowed it. Whenever i did infact say something his body language turned violent. He would never have hurt me, but the language showed me how much he believed in Absolutism. He Shook, and spittle flew from the corners of his mouth. Like a preacher in the pulpit giving a sermon on how to go to hell. He spilt his Mountain Dew on his coat. I took that as my cue to exit the conversation. Some arguements just aren't worth the time.
Idealism can be alot like Absolutism. It puts a set of filters on the eyes. Allows one to only see one way. Black and White. Right and Wrong. Dangerous if one is to come to grips terms with reality. How can you see the subtleness that is life when you have two options in which to view the world. Our senses don't even come close to being able to gather all the information that is actually around us. The fraction of light that we see withour eyes is miniscule when compared to what is actually out there. The amount of sounds that are imperceptible to the ear are also expansive and exist beyond our ability to hear.
There is a reality to "The Cure From Cars" which i haven't mentioned yet. Everything that is not naturally growing or existing in this world, has been brought about using petroleum. Directly and Indirectly. Our streets our made of oil. Everything is shipped using oil. Everything. EVERYTHING has had a little oil involved. This is what is so insidious about oil. It has worked its way into the very fabric of our lives. By walking I won't change EVERYTHING. In the same token to think that I would be able eliminate the use of oil in my personal life is shear lunacy. I would have to move into the forest and eat tree bark.
The highway out of Carmel quickly turned into a Freeway. I walked past a sign that said no pedestrians allowed. I practiced my french canadian accent in case i ran into the cops. there was plenty of shoulder though. Freeways are good like that. I kept my eye out for the fuzz and took the second exit into Monterey.
those tire are way to big for the PCH
The road into town was pretty steep. It was lined with hotels. I stopped at each one trying to find the Hostel that i knew existed. The last clerk finally helped me. The rest wanted anywhere from 50-100 dollars from me. I phoned the hostel and found out that it was across town. I hobbled an hour. Stopping briefly for a burrito. Finally getting to the hostel last night at around 7:00
Today was spent thinking about alternative methods for accomplishing the goal. I can't stop for a week and rest. I am on a time budget. I have noticed that there has been public transit all along route 1. I am toying with the idea of taking a ridiculous Public transit trip. It would be good for me. Facing a ridiculous fear. I despise the bus. I take it when i have too but i prefer to walk. It would be following along with the "Walk For The Cure From Cars." I feel at least. An alternative to driving myself around in my own car. See I am too stubborn to quit, I would rather evolve than be a purist, or an Idealist.
Idealism kills, and reality isn't actually real.
...I have sent word to the Romulons they are waiting in a system near by. We must bring the ambassador to the planet Golash, and Protect our precious cargo of Dylithium Crystal.
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